Skincare Saturday: Retinoids

Dear Blogettes:
Today's SS is tres important if you are serious about taking good care of your skin. Basic cleansing routines and regular exfoliation are the fundamentals of good skin care; however, if you want to take your skin to the next level - you should be using a retinoid. This one is long, but definitely worth it [that's what she said]
Happy reading.

From my earlier SS posts you know that only over the last three years have I been serious about taking care of my skin. Getting into a routine and using simple products really cleared up my skin; however, the 23 years of disservice I had done to my skin [picking, tanning, etc] was still evident - my skin was dull and rough, my pores were large, and my skintone was uneven with lots of hyperpigmentation [dark spots from the sun, or old acne marks from picking]. Hours of research led me to a possible solution: a retinoid.

Here are the W5's of Retinoids

Who? All ages and all skin types can benefit from a retinoid. I was hesitant to use a retinoid for two reaons. One, these are strong and I have sensitive skin and two, I wasn't sure I needed to use a product I associated with treating more mature skin. The promise of flawless skin won out over my concerns and taught me my biggest skincare lesson: preventing now is easier than correcting later. Now is the time for me to be proactive with my skin instead of trying to take 20 years off when I'm fifty. This isn't meant to say that all you ladies a tad older than I am can't benefit from a retinol - these are designed for your skin!

What? Retinoids are a derivative of Vitamin A and are the little black dress of skincare. Retinoids reduce fine lines by boosting collagen production and help to minimize pores. Even better - retinoids speed up cell turnover which helps smooth and even out your skintone, reducing hyperpigmentation and age spots, and brightening your skin.

Where? Retinoids are available to us in two ways - via a dermatologist for the most effective prescription strength versions (you may have heard of Retin-A or Renova to name a few), or without a prescription via an over the counter form of retinoids called Retinol, which you will now find advertised in most anti-aging creams. If you have a dermatologist or want the best of the best, I'd go the prescription route [I'd also go the prescription route if you struggle with severe acne - Retin A micro is designed for acne and will transform your skin]. I don't see a dermatologist so I found two ways to get retinol - in a moisturizer (Olay, RoC, Neutrogena etc, all have anti wrinkle moisturizers containing some level of retinol) or in a specific retinol treatment. I chose a retinol treatment over a little retinol in a moisturizer, it's more effective and packaged properly. Look for one with a strength of .01 (1% -highest available over the counter) and make sure it is packaged in some form of aluminum or air-sealed tube, the retinol has to be protected from light and air in order to maintain its bioavailability. The info in this blog will refer to retinol treatments, not moisturizers that contain retinol - those I'll cover when I do SS on moisturizers.

When? Retinoid treatments are used at night and each retinoid is different so following the package instructions are vital. After you wash your face at night, apply a thin layer to your entire face. After it dries, apply a moisturizer and make sure to use sunscreen during the day. If you are going the prescription route or have sensitive skin, apply the product every other night for a couple weeks to ease in to the treatment. Once your skin is comfortable, begin using it every night and enjoy the rewards. Prescription strength products will work faster, but generally you will need a good 12 weeks to see full results.

Why? Like I said above, a retinoid can really transform your skin. It's a great all-in-one treatment that works on many different levels of your skin. You could treat wrinkles, sun spots, pores, and uneven texture all seprately, or you could use a retinol treatment at night with better results.

[A couple extra W's never hurt anyone...]

What should you expect? Again, all skin reacts differently - but I had minimal, if any, side effects when I started using these. Retinoids can cause dryness, redness, and flaking which is why you should ease in to it at first. You may also experience a little bit of purging which can be mistaken for a breakout. Because it is increasing cell turnover, any clogged pores you have will come to the surface faster which can lead to a little "this is breaking me out" panic, but stick with it because this is just the medication working on your skin and the end result is amazing.

What should you use? I feel compelled to tell you the specific products I have tried as these aren't cheap purchases. Two years ago I used Philosophys Help Me which is relatively cheap ($45) compared to the two others I've used. I'm not sure of the strength of Help Me, but overall I would give it a 3 out of 5. I noticed smoother and brighter skin, but not really a difference in tone or pore size. I stopped using Help Me and a retinol all together for over a year because I didn't think it was doing all it promised.
This past September I read about Dermadoctors new Poetry in Lotion retinol treatment - which is the strongest form available (1%, pure retinol) combined with an anti-irritant to reduce some of the side effects.  I'd give this baby a 5 out of 5, I used it every other night and I saw great results - by Christmas I had noticed old acne scars fading, my pores were smaller, and my skin was behaving better. It's $75, and I used it every other night for three months and am still not at the bottom.
 I wouldn't have stopped using POL, but two weeks ago it was Christmas for me. Philosophy finally released their Miracle Worker Miraculous Anti-aging Retinoid Pads. First of all, this is HPR (high performance retinoid) mixed with skin conditioners, antioxidants, and soothing agents so you are getting maximum strength with minimal irritation. The formulation is so unique and much more user friendly - you pour the HPR solution over the pads and then use one pad a night (you pour the entire bottle of solution onto a pile of 60 pads and it all gets perfectly absorbed - you can also swipe them on the backs of your hands after your face). My mom and I both bought them, are two weeks in to treatment, and absolutely in love. These babies claim to show results in one week and both of us have noticed much smoother and brighter skin, my mom has a sun spot already fading, and both of our hands are much clearer already. I've been getting compliments on my skin lately, and my mom's skin is definitely starting to have a nice glow to it! These are expensive at $98 and will last 60 days. It seems like a lot, but compared to an $80 facial that delivers glowing skin for 3 hours - the pads are a good investment. So far, I'd give these pads a 10 out of 5. WIN.

So there you have it - everything you ever wanted to know about retinoids. I know this was a long post - but very important IMO. If you have any more specific questions or are considering a certain product, I'd be happy to research it for you or offer suggestions, you can send me an email or an inappropriate greeting card.

Happy Saturday,

XxLM