Makeup Monday: Emphaseyes.

Bonjour tout le monde - how was your weekend?

My weekend involved amazing sushi [avocado, sweet potato tempura, and hot banana maki], interesting people watching, and a Friday night consisting of wine and the sending of inappropriate greeting cards to my very special friends who I miss verymuch.com

Today is makeup monday, and today starts a series of makeup mondays dedicated to eyes. If you know me personally, you know that eyes creep me out. I can't wear contacts let alone watch anyone insert, remove, or fiddle with theirs without my eyes watering. I also squirm when people try to touch my eyes [not like it happens on a regular basis thank God] and harsh lighting makes me look like I ate too many of Moms special brownies.

Because of this - I do my makeup in the dark.

When I do my makeup [or anyone elses makeup for that matter] these problems all reside and I have no problems. Out of my entire makeup routine, I spend the most time on eyes because I believe they are the focal point of any look. Even if you are doing a bold red lip or princess pink cheeks, your eye makeup really affects how your look comes together. Because of this, there will be several makeup monday posts about eye makeup, and todays will be on the basics: brushes, eye prep, and colour selection based on your features. Yay!

The Brushes: eyeshadow brushes are a must. You don't have to have many, but using brushes not only deposits the correct amount of colour in the correct place, but it prevents your fingers from tugging on your eyelid which, in the future, can cause sagging and wrinkles. Not a makeup junkie? Purchase two basic brushes - an all over shadow brush, and a contour brush. The all over shadow brush is for, surprise, depositing a wash of colour all over your lid. The contour brush, which is an angled version of the all over shadow brush, is great for running eyeshadow in the crease of your eye to create dimension or a smokey look. These brushes do not have to be expensive, and Quo [or Sonia Kaschuk for you lucky girls able to visit Target on a regular basis] make fantastic brushes. Love makeup and love eye makeup? Sephora's all over shadow brush and angled contour brush are amazing (and still very cheap - about $13!), and invest in a MAC 217 blending brush. This baby is amazing for not only blending, but contouring and drawing shadows down under your lashline for a great smokey look. I own a good 25 eyeshadow brushes all with different purposes, but the Sephora all over shadow, Sephora contouring, and MAC 217 are the ones I couldn't live without [if we were only talking shadow, with liner, everything changes]. Want an all-in-one? Sephora makes a great double ended everyday eye brush, great price, great colour, great quality. WIN.

Eye Prep: prepping your eye area for eyeshadow application will not only create a smoother canvas for your shadow, it can make you look more awake, create wider eyes, and help your shadow to stay on all day long. No matter what eye look I am doing - I use four products.

Before setting your foundation with translucent powder:

1. Liquid highlighter - I use a small amount of liquid highlighter [some are especially created for under your eyes - Smashbox Photo Op under eye brightener is great, and I love Laura Mercier Secret Brightener] UNDERNEATH my concealer. When I do my face makeup, before concealing under my eyes I put a small amount of this stuff in the inner corner and blend down under my eyes, then use concealer over it. This really brightens up the area under your eyes without looking like you've warn your tanning goggles on the beach for too long
2. Primer - I never used to use an eyeshadow primer and by the end of the day, my shadow was either gone or a jumble of the colours I had used during the day that had creased together. I started using a primer in university and I don't think I will every go without one. Eyeshadow primers are used all over your top lid [if you place shadow on your lower lash line, using a small amount below your lid helps it stay] and into your brow bone. My favourite part of eyeshadow primer is that it corrects the colour of your eyelid. I went through the days of smokey shadows, but at the moment I am loving a nude eye with subtle liner, and lots of lashes. Most days I will only use primer on my lids to correct the colour, and skip eyeshadow all together. I use Urban Decay Primer Potion in Original, and I am yearning to purchase it in Sin which will dry to a pretty champagne finish. There are tons of shadow primers out there, but this is one of the items you don't need to invest in - simply dab your undereye concealer over your eyelid and voila - primed lids without adding another tube to your kit!

After setting your face with translucent powder

1. White cream shadow stick - I use an NYX Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk (white) and I couldn't live without this. I got mine at Ulta for $3, and I believe it's on sale for one dolla on the NYX website (http://www.nyxcosmetics.com/) - fist pump! I use the pencil on the inner corner of my eyes, and put a small amount right on my tear duct, and a tiny amount up into the innermost crease of my eye (see pic). I take a brush (or your finger if you'd like) and blend the colour over my tear ducts and up into the crease and what this does is open up your eyes and brighten them. Putting a lighter colour on the inside bridge of your nose near your tear duct can do wonders for awakening your face and eyes - and if you can't find NYX where you are, and cheap, thick, white pencil will do.
2. Flesh coloured liner - rimming this coloured liner on the inner rims of your lower lashline is a trick that makeup artists use to freshen up your eyes and make you look more awake. I'm not too sure what a hangover feels like, but apparently this is great if you've had a late night and need to erase the vodka eyes the next morning. Finding a colour is slightly difficult - the best option is a flesh toned pink, slightly lighter than the inner rim of your lower lashline, which is where you will use the liner. The best one I've found is Make Up Forever's Concealer Pencil. Previously I had been using a white pencil (this works too, but is a little dramatic in the daytime) and the colour of the MUFE one is spot on. You can also use it to line your lips, highlight around your nose, and blur small spots on your skin. It blends like a cream concealer and stays on all day. You'll also notice in the product description the MUFE artist suggests using the pencil for this reason, I'm not just making it up :) WIN.
   

Seems like a lot of work just to get your eyes ready for eyeshadow - but all together, the white pencil and the flesh liner really open up your eyes, and the primer will allow your shadow to last longer, stay crease free, and colour true. If you notice your eyeshadow seems to change colours during the day [foundation can too], this means that the oil in your skin is causing the makeup to oxidise, a primer will prevent this. Doing all these steps and simply adding mascara and dotting eyeliner in between your lashes (awesome tip - next Monday) is a quick, easy, pretty looking everyday eye look.

Lastly for today, there are a million eyeshadow colours on the market today - if you are a makeup novice, there are premade palettes you can purchase depending on your eye colour. Using eyeshadow colours that complement the colour of your eyes can really create a standout eye using minimal effort. This is not to say that if you should limit yourself to certain colours [well you blue-eyed beauties should nix the blue shadow] - if you like it - work it! Your hair colour can also play a role in choosing an eyeshadow colour. Light hair? Browns work best for you, darker hair can get away with more playful colours without looking too barbie-ish.

Here are shades that can be used to intensify your own eye colour:

Brown: green, bronze, champagne, brown, blue (deep navy liner is amazing on brown eyes)

Blue: taupe, grey, purple, champagne, golden tan, browns

Green/Hazel: deeper bronze, gold, tan, champagne

Looking for a great universal shade that flatters all eyes? MACs All That Glitters is a beautiful champagne colour with subtle shimmer that intensifies all eye colours and is great for an everyday look. I've hit pan on ATG and have repurchased this baby multiple times.

So there you have it: eye basics and eye prep. Next Monday we can fiddle with liner and some basic eyeshadow applications for everyday looks. Lashes will come in a few weeks. My all-time fav with eyes is lashes and I've already started writing the MM post for it I'm so excited. Is that pathetic?

On a separate note... my FAVOURITE make up artist Melissa just uploaded her newest makeup tutorial. Melissa has taught me everything I know about tips and tricks for Hollywood-style makeup, I can't wait to try this one out!

...till next time, xxLM

Skincare Saturday: Mask It.

I've been dreading this post all week. Not because I dislike talking about facials (well some forms creep me out, TMI), but because I decided that I would take photos of my painful face mask in action. First of all, I'm not a big fan of photo's of myself, as you can see by the fact that I do not have 1,000+ photos tagged of me on facebook. Second, photo's of me covered in a green slime that transforms into a mint coloured, chalk textured solution that pulls my skin so tight it dimples isn't exactly confidence boosting. But - for the love of skincare and the love of this blog, I agreed to do it.

By now you all know I love skincare. By now you all know I invest time and money into my skin. What you may not know is I use the cheapest face masks ever. I don't have a ton of experience with different facemasks because I have 2 or 3 that I use all the time, and continue to buy over and over again when they are empty (its rare that I use a product until its empty, and even more rare that I repurchase the same one after it's gone).

A little about facemasks before I lose my dignity. Facemasks are [should be] an important part to your skincare routine and often underestimated. Ideally, a face mask is done once a week - if you have problem skin, more often. I average about 2-3 per week, not only because of my fear of adult acne, but because I love them. Aside from the devil mask, the other ones I use are so refreshing and cool that they actually leave me happy and energized when I take them off. Loser, I know.

Facemasks not only deep clean your skin, but they can help to retain moisture, remove excess oil and blackheads, ease fine lines...it all depends on your skincare concerns and which mask you purchase. Generally, masks come in either clay or gel form, both of which are designed to stay put on your face. If you have very sensitive skin, a gel form may be better than a heavy clay, but I have had no problems using clay masks and I have sensitive skin. Because the masks remain on your face for a period of time (usually about 15 minutes) they clean very deep in to your pores, removing dirt and oil that is trapped under your skin [that means you blackheads]. When the masks are removed or peeled off, the top layer of skin is removed, revealing smoother, tighter, and brighter skin.

To get the most out of your facemask

1. Wash your face as you normally would, removing all makeup
2. Steam your face prior to putting on the mask to open up your pores. Either do the mask right after you shower (your pores will be open from the steam) or steam your face in the sink. I have a steam machine from Target which is awesome, but for free, you can fill your sink 3/4 full of hot hot water. As it fills drape a large towel over the sink to keep the steam in. Shut off the water when the sink is 3/4 full, lift the towel and insert your face [why can I not write this paragraph?]. I place my arms around the sink and rest my forehead near my hands, keeping the towel over my head and sink to keep the steam trapped in and working on my face. If you've never steamed your face before, it's hot and somewhat uncomfortable, but after a good 10 minutes your pores will be nice and open and if you know how to do extractions, you can remove blackheads on your own much easier.
3. Dry your steamed face off [again, this all sounds funky] and put on your mask. Usually a thin, even layer works best
4. Leave the mask on for the required amount of time, usually about 15 minutes until it dries, turns another colour, or is ready to peel off depending on the brand and type of mask
5. Either peel off, or using a warm washcloth rinse the mask off your face, making sure to get all edges around your hairline and chin off [I've been to work one too many times with leftover facemask on my chin, true story.]
6. Enjoy your new skin :)

Ok. Now for my masks. The painful mask I refer to all the time is called Aztec Secret and it's definitely a love/hate relationship. The mask is purchased at the Vitamin Shoppe and comes in powder form which you mix with water or raw apple cider vinegar. I have tried it with only water, only cider vinegar, and half and half, and the latter works best. When mixed with only water, the solution is too thick and clumpy, when mixed with only cider vinegar, it is almost too foamy and messy. Taking a lesson from Goldilocks I tried a mix of both and it was juuuuust right [ps, before editing this post, Goldilocks was Little Red Riding Hood and I had to google it to see that it wasn't correct - apparently my mother never read me fairy tales. Child Sevices. Just Sayin']. This mask is heavy clay, and by the label you can see that it claims to be the most powerful facial on the planet. Oh - you can also see clearly the "feel your face pulsate" on the label and let me tell you, this thing doens't f*ck around. Instead of trying to explain the feeling of this mask, I thought I would take a selection of pictures of the mask process for you to see for yourself. In the side profile pictures, the divots and dimples in my face are not an illusion, the mask pulls so tight that my face looks like paradise for a moguls skier. In additon, near the end of the 15 minute period, the pressure is so tight on my face that it becomes difficult to close my lips and I have a beautiful duck face. I can't believe I'm posting these.

Why do I do it? Well, in not f*cking around, this mask cleans absoutely everything out of your skin. You can only do it at night because once removed, your face is red and a little sunburned-soreness remains for about a half hour - but in the morning, you wake up to clear, bright, and SUPER soft skin. I noticed a big difference after I started using this mask, and I only started using it this summer. My skin never reacted poorly to the cider vinegar either, the smell is a tad tangy, but once the mask starts to dry and pull, that little aroma is the least of your problems. Beauty is pain ladies.

Before risking my skin to the Aztec secret, I used the Queen Helene Mint Julep mask a good 3 times a week for over a year, and I still use it weekly here. I cannot rave enough about this bad boy - its super cheap, lasts forever, smells fantastic, and leaves your face feeling amazing - sort of like every guy's dream woman. You can get this in the US at Meijers, Ulta, and CVS I believe. Queen Helene also makes other masks which I love as well - the Mud Pack Masque and the Grapeseed Peel Masque - again, cheap and awesome. I've only ever been able to find the full line of Queen Helene at Ulta, but Meijers and CVS sell the Mint Julep masque because it's very popular. If you have problem skin and are concerned with breakouts and blackheads, this mask really clears them up. I used it almost every other night when my skin was bad and it really made a difference. A testimonial? When I went for my first facial, I apparently had a shocking number of blackheads (note: I never exfoliated or used face masks). After hearing that, I was in the US and purchased this product, used it regularly, and 8 weeks later at my next facial I had not one single blackhead. WIN. [please note devil kitty is playing a nice game of 'just the tip' in this photo]

Unfortunately for you Canadian ladies - I don't believe these are sold here; however, you can purchase them online. The other option is to be really, really nice to me over the next few weeks because I am heading to Michigan at the end of February and will definitely be stocking up on these items; the idea of me fulfilling your wishlist is a definite possibility. The first option is definitely easier, because I am picky and will charge you interest, but hey - beauty is pain ladies.

Another level of pain? Trying to take photos with devil kitty. Notice the facemasks between his legs. Is this what it's like to have a baby?

Free Cocktail Friday (almost) : Cornstarch

Remember the time I posted a Wednesday tip about running cornstarch through your hair?

I got a lot of emails about that and I thought I'd share my variety of at home beauty cocktails that'll save you time, money, and are hangover free.
I guess it's only appropriate to start with Cornstarch for your hair.


Not common knowledge, but most people know that it's not the greatest idea to wash your hair every day. Your scalp produces natural oils throughout the day, and washing removes those oils. Unfortunately, your hair needs those oils to maintain its health, especially if you have dry hair. Washing your hair every day can strip your hair, causing breakage. You know what else causes breakage? Devil kitty sitting behind me EATING my hair. [I'm sure that reinforced your decision to buy a dog, but remember - I don't have to walk my cat in the frigid cold]

Back to business, I wash my hair 2 or 3 times [max] per week. My hair is a b*tch to dry, it's the mullet of curly hair: straight in the front, curly in the back. I have to round brush my hair straight, and then straighten it - and those of you who have the pleasure of seeing me face to face know that you'll always find a few curly roots at the back of my hair that I can't reach. F*ck.

ANYWAYS, by day 3 my hair is greasy, and I am still lazy - so I use cornstarch or a toothbrush and hairspray to remove the oils. There are plenty of dry shampoo's out there, but they are expensive, smelly, and don't last very long. I've tried a couple, and I can tell you none work as well as cornstarch or the toothbrush. Here's how you do it...

Cornstarch: Take a small amount of cornstarch into your palm, roughly the size of a penny - any more and your pretty brown/blonde/ginger hair may resemble a cocaine spillage. Take the cornstarch and rub it into your fingers, then run your fingers through your ROOTS, not your hair. Since the cornstarch will absorb the excess oil on your scalp, its important to only place it on your roots, but focusing on the top of your head and where your hair is parted will give the most payoff. After you rub in the cornstarch, flip your head upside down and blowdry on cool for about 30 seconds - not only will it make sure there are no flakes in your head, but it will give some body to your hair as well. Stand back up, and you should have non-greasy, volumized hair, sans blow job, and thats always a good thing.

Toothbrush & Hairspray: Sometimes, my hair isn't oily all over, my part just looks a little flat. I purchased a cheap, medium, flat top toothbrush (no whitening strip, tongue cleaner, or battery powered items required for this mane) and it works well when you use it with hairspray. What I do, is spray the hairspray directly on to the brush, and stroke the toothbrush over my roots at my part - again it absorbs the oil and freshens the area. I'd imagine doing this to your entire head would take time, so I'd stick with the cornstarch. [ps - 'stroke' is one of those words that seems dirty, even if used in a clean context. My friend The Appointment finds juice box to be one of these words as well]

So there you have it - if you find your hair a little greasy on day 2 or 3, or 4 [been there], or 5 [shame on me], or 6 [hey, I was sick...f*ck off] - then these tips save time, money, and a lot of effort.

Have Faux Friday tips and tricks that work for you? I'd love to share - email moi @ allmylaundry@gmail.com . You can also email me love notes, paypal money transfers, or funny greeting cards from http://www.someecards.com/ - if you haven't been there - go immediately and send me something dirty.


xxLM.

Makeup Mon[Tues]day: Get Cheeky

I know, today is Tuesday. My apologies.

There are countless reasons as to why Makeup Monday turned into Tuesday [one may involve the fact that this past weekend's alumni reunion was a tad too much fun] - but the most important reason that I am just now posting is that I didn't want to rush this topic and do a sh*t job just to post something. Blush & Bronzer are my absolute favourite part to makeup, so rushing this blog was not an option. Forgiven?

Good. Let's move on.

I think we all have talent wishes, I have a couple. Besides being Taylor Swift or Britney Spears, I wish I could draw. I envy all you artists out there that can sketch, paint, and create images using your own hands. Luckily for me, this skill isn't vital to makeup application, and although I lack the skills to paint myself a lifesize cutout of Shamar Moore [Criminal Minds..SSA Derek Morgan...marry me], I have the skills to paint my face and that'll do for me.

Blush and bronzer are my favourite and as you can see, I have quite the selection [this also may or may not be all of my collection, just my favourites]. Using the right colours and application of blush and bronzer can add life and radiance to your skin and can fake not only a tan, but the shape and structure of your face. Incorrect application can leave you looking like an embarassed oompa-loompa. Your choice.

Everyone can benefit from bronzer.

Bronzer is not exclusive to us pale skinned gals wishing for that creamy Olive skin that stays warm and inviting all year round [b*tches]. Because bronzer isn't only used to warm the skin, you tanned gals can benefit from the sculpting effect of bronzer. For me, I benefit from both the warmth and the sculpting - aka, I dont look dead and my face looks skinnier. WIN.


Using bronzer for warmth is a necessity for me as I finally quit tanning and prefer not to look translucent in the winter. Personally, I prefer to use a bronzer with minimal shimmer that is relatively close to my own skintone. Bronzer should subtly enhance your skin and not make you look dirty, orange, or like a disco ball. Bronzer should make us look naturally sunkissed, and as much as we love Edward Cullen, the sun doesn't impart bright gold flecks onto our skin, and neither should your bronzer. Naturally sunkissed also doesn't change the colour of your entire face - if you feel the need to spread bronzer all over your face - take a trip to the tanning bed and then maybe to the Jersey Shore.


Using bronzer for warmth and bronzer to sculpt your face are two different methods of action.

• Warmth: bronzer should be applied in the shape of a '3' on each side of your face [obviously one side will be a reverse 3]. Starting at your hairline, gently dust bronzer down the side of your temple, coming in slightly at your cheeks, and back out and down your jawline, slightly running the brush just under your neck. This will deposit colour where the sun would naturally hit, and you can add a tiny amount down the bridge of your nose and at the base of your chin for extra colour. Less.Is.More
• Sculpting: sculpting your face with bronzer gives the illusion of cheekbones and a thinner nose, therefore making your face look thinner. The most important place to sculpt is your cheeks, as this will impart a bigger effect on the face than your nose will. To sculpt your cheeks - place your index finger at the middle of your ear - this is the high point of your cheekbone. Press in to your face and run your finger down your cheekbone, feeling the hollow portion - this is where you want to put colour. The easiest way to do this is to use a brush and run your bronzer in a diagonal line from your middle ear and down, stopping just over halfway to your mouth (I use the middle of my eye as a guide). Once you've drawn your line, buff (circle) the brush over the colour following the line to blend the colour, bringing the brush right back up to your ear and slightly up your temples. You can blend the colour up and on to your temples as well, but the biggest payoff will be ensuring the colour is blended nicely into the hollows of your cheekbones, this will create the illusion of a shadow, which makes your face look more sculpted and thinner. WIN. Want to thin your nose? Using an eyeshadow brush, lightly brush bronzer down the sides of your nose, close to the bridge. Run a highlighter [see below] along the bridge of your nose to create dimension.
• You can use bronzer for warmth and sculpting, but you will need two colours and a lot less of a line with the sculpting. Use the lighter colour in the '3' pattern for all over warmth, and then using a smaller brush (I use an angled fluffy eyeshadow brush], lightly dust the darker bronzer just at the hollow part of your cheekbone and up to your ear, blend well - and voila... sunkissed and sculpted :)

Everyone can benefit from blush.

Blush adds life to the face and is necessary to perk up your skin, especially on a Monday after alumni weekend (and Tuesday in my case, it was that fun). There are millions of colours and textures available, and if you are a blush novice, I recommend having a subtle peachy/pink colour that is universally flattering. This colour would be NARS Orgasm [right], the most popular blush in the world, consistently winning beauty awards, and consistently making its appearance on my face [hard to find a PC way to make that statement]. Orgasm is the perfect mix of peach, pink, and minimal sparkle, while not being exclusive to skintones that are warm or cool, pale or tanned - its literally fantastic on everyone [feels good to...going on I mean]. I wish I could suggest a colour dupe for this, but really, there is no comparison to Orgasm.

Blush application depends on the formula

• Creme blush should be applied before setting your foundation with translucent powder. It should also be applied with small brush (MAC 187 is awesome) strokes running from the apples of your cheeks up to your ear, and then blended by circling the brush over the colour. If you use a lot of bronzer, using a creme blush will impart a subtle glow from underneath the translucent powder with the bronzer on top, very understated yet naturally pretty. WIN.
• Powder blush should be applied after your translucent powder and bronzer. If you are using bronzer to sculpt your cheeks - go easy on the blush as you want the focus to remain on the faux shadows you've created. Even better, skip blush and use a highliter [read below] just on your cheekbones, the contrast will be barely visible, but the shape will be amplified. If you use the classic 3 bronzer look, use a blush brush and lightly buff your blush on to the apples of your cheeks starting from the outside of your face and working inwards. If you start at the outside and work in, most of the colour is deposited closer to your ear and then blended seamlessly inwards. Start at the apples, and most of the colour is deposited right on to your cheeks and that "I just came in from the cold" flush turns in to "my part time job is the clown at the fair." FAIL.
  
• Highlighters differ from blush in the fact that the colour payoff is less, the shimmer is slightly more, and they impart more of a glow to the face than adding actual colour. I typically use highlighter when I am going out for the evening as it can be too shimmery for the workday. As stated above, it works fantastically when used with the sculpting technique as it creates a subtle contrast to draw more attention to your new [free] cheekbones. PS - wtf happened to Heidi Montag. Ew.

The great thing about blush and bronzer is they are so widely available at every price point. Unlike foundation, more expensive brands don't necessarily mean better payoff - the staying ability may be a little less, but overall - the effect can be the same. If you love makeup and love blush and bronzer as much as I do, NARS is your soul mate. Their lasting ability is amazing and unlike some other brands, the glitter is limited. I mentioned earlier about their most popular blush [Orgasm], but if you are looking for something different from their line, I really like Sin and Deep Throat [thats what she said]. Laguna, Silvana, and Sertaro are my favourite natural bronzers from them, with Laguna being one of the most popular bronzers in the world for its ability to work with all skintones. MAC also makes great blushes, and if you have a cool, pale skintone similar to me - hit up a pro store, purchase Canteloupe, and enjoy the perfect pretty peach sunset on your cheeks no matter what the weather.

Like I said, I love all things makeup, but I look forward to using my bronzers and blushes every day. Maybe that's a sad statement, but how can you not be excited about whipping out that Orgasm at 9am at least 4 times a week? Note: my mom only owns Orgasm, so her's makes an appearance 7 days a week - go Mom!

xxLM :)

Makeup Monday: Hiding The Evidence...

...for me, it's hiding the evidence that I am either undersleeping or overestimating the capability of my liver. Either way, if I am putting on makeup, I am putting on concealer no matter how peppy I am that day. For a while I didn't know how or where to put concealer [well obviously when I went through adult acne I knew where to put concealer... it was like whack a mole with a concealer brush]. I did some research about two years ago and learned how and where to correctly apply concealer, the different colours to use, and the benefits of taking an extra 30 seconds during your makeup routine to blend blend blend.

Concealers are mostly in liquid or creme form, BareMinerals has a multitasking Bisque powder concealer that is great if you use powder foundation, but generally liquid foundation calls for liquid or creme concealer.

Concealers come in different colours in addition to ranges that match your skintone. Your colour choice of a concealer should be determined by the area you are concealing and what you are trying to cover or enhance. The different coloured concealers are all meant for a specific purpose

• Green tones down redness on your skin and is great if you have rosacea or sections where your skin is irritated. If you have raised red acne marks however, trying to tone down the redness on a tiny spot will actually enhance it
• Yellow is great for undereye circles because it hides blue veins on lighter skintones, yellow can also be used to correct tiny patches of redness on a blemish before using a colour matching your skintone [more below]
• Orange [deeper beige actually] is great for those who have an olive or darker skintone for covering undereye circles, blemishes, or hyperpigmentation. If your skin is on the darker side and you use a more yellow based concealer, it can resemble that fantastic look when you forget to take your sunglasses off while tanning :)
• Purple/Pink concealers are great to brighten the complexion, especially when used in the inner corners of the eyes for all skintones
  

Generally, unless you are a makeup fanatic it is unreasonable to buy all different colours of concealers; if you have a patch of redness bigger than a blemish, I would suggest investing in a green corrector if this is your main complaint. If concealer is your thing, a couple brands now make concealer palettes which include smaller portions of different colours. For all you gals collecting Shoppers Optimum Points [and all you ladies special enough to get a discount, hmpf] -Lise Watier makes a great product called Portfolio [left], and it includes a variety of colours [and instructions] on how and where to apply.

Especially with concealer, application is important. Concealer should be applied after your foundation. First, if you apply concealer before foundation, while you blend you actually strip away the concealer you just applied. The second [and most important] reason is that you should evaluate if and where you need concealer after your foundation is on. If your foundation covers what you'd like to fix, then concealer isn't necessary and you can go on looking in the mirror at your perfect complexion, I'm happy for you. If you are like me, I prefer to use a sheer foundation and therefore need concealer to soften [hide] my vodka bags that appear out of nowhere and for reasons unbeknownst to me.

When using concealer under your eyes - my only tip is to use your ring finger to lightly pat under your eyes to blend it. Patting the concealer will not only blend it seamlessly into your skin, but it will actually help tone down any puffiness that you have. Rubbing there is a no-no [that's what she said] because your skin under your eyes is very delicate, and too much friction can cause irritation [again, that's what she said]. I also apply a tiny amount of concealer to the inner corner of my eye, it makes a huge difference for myself and when I am doing makeup for others. Wear a lot of eyeshadow? Patting a tiny amount of concealer directly on to your lid can also dupe as a primer to make your shadow stay on longer :)

When concealing redness: if you are using a green corrector, this is the exception to pre-foundation concealing. If you are using a green corrector, lightly pat it on to the skin to cover the area, and be gentle when applying your foundation over it. If you still require more coverage after foundaiton, use one matched to your skintone. I have small areas of redness around my nose and on the top of my lips, applying a little concealer to these areas with a brush really brightens up your face. I use a concealer that is a tiny tiny bit lighter than my skintone with a brush, and I blend it in by tapping with my finger. Even if you dont have redness in these areas, play around with applying concealer lightly around your top lip and the edges of your nose where shadows usually sit, it makes a nice subtle difference and really enhances your lips.

[Note: the bachelor is on TV at the moment and I'm getting annoyed - w[ho]tf are these girls?]

Concealing a blemish? This I have experience in, and the best way that I have found is to use two different colours for this. I apply the lighter colour first and blend over and around the blemish, making sure it melts into the skin. After, with a brush, I lightly tap the darker colour on the top of the blemish only. The darker colour will distract attention away from the blemish, and if you try above, all attention will be on your new concealer-inspired pouty lips. Just don't go around making the kissy face. Frown > Kissy Face anyday.

After your concealer is done, set your makeup with translucent powder and you are ready for my favourite - blush & bronzer. Next week I'll teach you how to sculpt your face using bronzer and highlighter, it'll not only create the illusion of high cheekbones, but it will slim your face without having to pass on the chocolate cake or take a trip down treadmill alley.

[The Bachelor is still on, and some chick my age just got a diamond necklace from the man who is also locking lips with 18 other bottled blondes. She is crying tears of joy. I am frowning at the TV, if this gets worse I may have to whip out the half kissy face - shame on her.]

Xx,LM

Skincare Saturday: Cleansing

It's Saturday night and you guessed it: I'm waiting for 48 Hour Mystery to come on. The problem is it's on at ten, and although I've been going to bed later for the last little while, I enjoyed one too many Vodka Soda's (with lime. always a lime. never a lemon) last night and am a tad tired.

Needless to say, my skin is dry today. Ever notice that the day after a night where you felt really pretty and really funny, your skin is lackluster and dry? It's because the alcohol removes water from your body, therefore taking away some of your skins hydration. Note: my mom's skin is always dry, you do the math. My combination skin proves that I have a good life balance of work and play. It's science.

I started taking good care of my skin when I graduated. All through high school and University I struggled with acne and it was awful. I was so self-conscious and would try a million different lotions, gels, and creams in attempt to have Jessica Simpson skin. Proactiv worked for Jessica Simpson. Proactiv did not work for me. B*tch.

My skin started to clear when I stopped trying to treat just the blemishes, and started taking care of my skin as a whole. I will never forget reading a magazine article on Hilary Duff - her number one beauty tip? Always take off your makeup before bed. I mentioned in an earlier post that I used to leave my makeup on, sometimes for days, in University. As soon as I was at home, that stopped. I made it a point to wash my face earlier on in the evening when I knew I wouldn't be going out after (even if it was 6pm). I found that if I left it until right before bed, I was always too tired (thanks Dad for passing down your fall-asleep-anywhere-anytime gene). Important to note: simply washing your face doesn't remove your makeup, even after using a cleanser there are still traces of makeup deep in your skin that can clog your pores. At night, I took off my eyemakeup and started using cold cream to remove my foundation before I washed my face, and the difference was remarkable.

The other thing that made a difference? Sticking to simple products. I am a sucker for beauty products, but I am very hesitant when it comes to skincare. I am uncomfortable buying anything to put on my face without researching and reading countless reviews, always fearing that my acne would come back. I don't like to push specific products too much as much as let you know what works for me, but I have no problem recommending Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser no matter what your skin type. Cetaphil is a soap free, PH balanced cleanser that can be used with or without water. It's not fancy, it doesn't smell like tangerine, and there are no promises of geisha skin. Cetaphil leaves your skin feeling soft and comfortable. I used to think that the tight feeling other cleansers left meant my skin was cleaner, but they were really harming my skin, causing it to produce more oil since I had stripped all of my natural oils away. I have been using this Cetaphil for 4 years now and it never disappoints. I've bought a couple new cleansers over the years and all are up for swap on MakeUpAlley - I just can't cheat on Cetaphil. The only time I wash my face with another product is when I exfoliate, which was reason number three of my skin turnaround.

Exfoliation is critical to good skin and should be done at least once a week, preferably more. If you are struggling with acne, very dry skin that flakes, or clogged pores and blackheads - regular exfoliation could be your savior. When you exfoliate, you remove a thin layer of dead skin cells that accumulate on your face throughout the day. All skin types can benefit from this, the trick is to pick the right one. I prefer gentle exfoliation using a facewash with smaller beads or particles to using one that feels like sandpaper on my face. I have a great love for three gentle exfoliators - Aveeno's Skin Brightening Daily Scrub, Philosophy's The Microdelivery Exfoliating Wash, and Dermalogica's Daily Microfoliant. The microfoliant comes in a powder form that reacts to the water on your hands and is so gentle on your skin, it is one of the very few products I repurchase over and over. If you are like one of my very good friends and enjoy it rough, Queen Helene makes an Oatmeal 'n Honey Natural Facial Scrub that will definitely satisfy. Queen Helene is found at Ulta stores in the US and it is so cheap and very effective. My all time favourite face mask (not the painful one) is their Mint Julep Masque, which is very, very popular. I'm going to do a post on facemasks at a later date, so I'll save my gushing on this mask for then.

Taking the time to learn about skincare and the importance of proper cleansing really made a difference for me. I stopped looking for fancy labels and stopped buying in to the promises that each product claimed. I don't like to buy high end facial cleansers- lotions and gels okay, but not cleansers. I have a hard time understanding how something that is rubbed on your face for thirty seconds and then washed off can make that much of an impact. Moisturizers, gels, and serums sink in to your skin and work throughout the night or day, but cleansers are washed off quickly. Save your money and invest in a nighttime Retinoid treatment instead (again, will cover that at another date).

My last tip to cleansing is to understand your own skin and your daily habits. For me, I wear foundation during the day and I am guilty of touching my face a lot. Understanding that simply using Cetaphil at the end of the day isn't going to remove all my makeup was a huge help. If you don't wear a lot of foundation, your cleanser may do the job, but if you do, using a cold cream or makeup remover before you cleanse will really help; it will allow the your lotions and creams to get into the deeper layers of your skin instead of sitting on top of left over makeup. I am not suggesting to rub eye makeup remover all over your face. I used Ponds Cold Cream [yes, the classic cold cream] and I loved it. I am currently using Bioderma's Sensibio to take off my foundation before Cetaphil, and its great as well. You can definitely use these in place of your regular cleanser, I just found better results with using them at night to take off my makeup, followed by Cetaphil.

Obviously this is not my entire skincare routine, but cleansing is the first and most important step when taking care of your skin. If you don't cleanse properly, your other products won't work as well because they wont be able to get as deep [that's what she said]. Next week comes toning which isn't a common step in a lot of skincare routines, but can also help your other products to work more efficiently.

Its 9:21pm and I've done my nightly routine, am drinking The Skinny [had a big dinner], and am settled in for 48 hours Mystery. My mom has notified me that she is vacuuming so she won't hear her phone, but she'll be finished by ten to join me for the show.

Sweet Dreams... XxLM


PS - I'm guest writing a post for my friends site Mommy Brain, it's amazing and follows her journey as a new mom. Obviously a topic in which I have a black belt of experience.

Makeup Monday: Putting Your Best Face Forward

First day back at work after the holiday season?
Mine too.

Did you go back to the office with a post holiday glow and an even complexion?
I did.

I'd love to say that my skin just glows naturally and I've always had an even complexion, but unfortunately, that is not the case. As a teenager and well into my University years I, like most people, struggled with acne. More than the scarring and obvious imperfections, I hated the way the acne made me feel - self conscious and uncomfortable. I think thats why I not only have a love for skincare, but a love for all things foundation.

So yes, I did go to work today with a nice holiday glow and an even complexion, but it was all faux. I'm not usually a fan of fakes, but I'm all for faking great skin: all you need is the right foundation, concealer, and the right application. Again, it doesn't have to be expensive, but if you are going to splurge for one cosmetic - it should be foundation. Foundation goes directly on to your skin, and the ingredients in it can affect your complexion. Unlike eyeshadows which you can pretty much dupe all colours and textures with drugstore brands, higher end foundation does use finer ingredients that can actually help your skin. A lot are even being made with anti-aging skincare serums mixed right in (I'm all about the 2-in-1, except with the shampoo/conditioner combo: haircare no-no).

A few pre-application tingles...

1. Foundation comes in different formulations to work with your skin
Powder: best for combination or oily skin, when layered on dry skin it can look really cakey, and not the pretty wedding cake version.
Liquid: liquid can be used on all skintones because it comes in so many formulations - moisturizing for dry skin, oil-free or mattifying for combination-oily skins, and for all you b*tches with perfectly normal skin, you can wear anything you want.
Creme or Stick: these are best for normal or dry skins as they usually leave more of a glowy finish that can look rather reflective on an oilier skinned gal
Tinted Moisturizer: again, can work for most skintones except very oily, great for summer as most are now formulated with SPF.

2. Foundations come in different levels of coverage and finishes
Sheer: designed to let your skin show through, gives more of a natural finish and is great for all of you who want to even out your skin tone without that heavy make-up feeling
Moderate: Have a lot of surface redness or hyperpigmentation? Want a little more coverage without looking like wax? Moderate coverage foundation would be a good alternative to trying to cover everything with a heavy hand
Full: the name says it all - full coverage foundation is heaver and more opaque to transform your skin in to a blank canvas. However, unless you have a big scar or a large area of discoloration [or it's your wedding day and you have a very talented make-up artist],I'd shy away from full coverage - not many people can fake geisha-esque skin.

3. Choose the right colour
Tres important - you should have a foundation for summer and for winter, not one for both (unless the sun never touches your skin). Test the foundation on the corner of your face near your jawline, if the colour disappears into your skin - its a match. If you are good with application and your body is darker than your face, you can buy one shade warmer or darker to match, but make sure application is seamless and it stays on all day :)

4. Application is everything
Many things creep me out, and among contact lenses and wet feed in the sand, applying and blending foundation with your fingers is one of them. From my experience and the recommendations of almost any makeup artist you ask - foundation is best applied with a brush. Using the correct brush will allow you to have faster application and spread it more evenly throughout your face - another plus - its definitely more hygenic. Foundation brushes, as opposed to sponges, don't soak up most of the product before depositing it onto your skin, so you'll also use a lot less. Some foundations, like creme or powder will come with a brush or sponge, I've always found a brush works better - and when it comes to foundation and application, I've definitely been around the block (many times).

There are 3 main shapes to a foundation brush and they all affect the way your foundation is applied to the skin. Since I've been around the block with foundations, I've also had time to acquire a couple brushes along the way. You can buy brushes anywhere, and with the exception of a few, most of my eyeshadow brushes are all Target originals; in contrast, my foundation brushes are MAC for a reason: they're the best [well they were, until my Sephora discovery on Saturday that gave me goosebumps. Details later].

Here are my foundation brushes. From left, the MAC 187 and MAC 188 are both circular brushes designed for lightweight application. The 187 is one of the most popular foundation brushes in the world, it picks up just the right amount of liquid or creme foundation and buffs it perfectly into the skin, leaving a really natural look - it also picks up powder foundation perfectly. If you are a foundation novice, this style of brush is easier to master than the MAC 190 (middle). The MAC 190 is firmer and more dense than the 187, designed for smaller strokes for blending foundation outwards from the middle of your face. When used correctly, this can create a seamless and flawless look, but it can also cause streaks or uneven sections depending on the amount you pick up for each portion of your face. Personally, the 187 is a lot easier, a lot faster, and gives a nicer finish [sort of how I imagine David Beckham...]; however, I discovered a new (cheaper) and superior alternative to the MAC 187: introducing the Sephora Professional Platinum Air Brush #55 (2nd from right). For me, this brush tops the 187 hands down - it blends as you apply it, and you can layer your foundations to change your level of coverage - and at any level it looks smooth, polished, and perfect. WIN. The brush on the very right is a Kabuki brush and works really well with Bare Minerals foundation or any loose powder, just be careful not to pick up too much product.

Now that you have the right foundation, coverage level, and application method for you - the rest is simple. Here are the steps that I use, and are generally used when applying foundation.

Moisturize and prep your skin. I use a foundation primer which isn't a necessity, but can really help smooth your skin if you have fine lines or large pores. Oilier skinned gals can benefit from a primer with oil control to help makeup stay on all day.

For liquid, creme, powder, or tinted moisturizer applied with a 187 style brush:

• dab a dime sized amount of product on to the back of your hand, and lightly dip your brush so just the tips are coated with product. For powder, lightly sweep the brush over the top of the powder if its pressed, or dip it slightly into loose powder
• [Powder foundation: skip this step] Starting at the center of your face, dab (like a bingo dabber) the foundation onto both cheeks, your forehead, and chin - this should be all you need to cover your entire face. If you have redness on any areas, you can stipple [continue dabbing over the area before buffing] the brush on those areas for a little more coverage.
• Start moving the brush in circular motions around your face, buffing gently into the skin, making sure to reach your hairline, and going a little lower than your jawline for seamless coverage. If you want more coverage, dip the brush into the foundation on the back of your hand again, and repeat, making sure to blend blend blend. Simple, fast and easy.

..using a 190 style brush (not ideal for powder)

• dab a dime size amount of foundation on the back of your hand and gently coat the tip of the brush with product
• starting at the middle of your face and blending outwards, move the brush in short, small strokes downward making sure to evenly spread the product (you will need to dip again to cover your entire face, the 187 spreads faster with less foundation)
• continue short strokes until you have covered your entire face, paying close attention to your jawline, hairline, and lip area to ensure that all is even.

After making sure everything is even, apply concealer to any discolourations, blemishes, around the edges of your nose, and under your eyes if needed. Using concealer after your foundation ensures the concealer isn't smudged by applying the foundation over it.

After your foundation/concealer is on, if you are using liquid or creme foundation, set it with translucent setting powder using a large powder brush. This won't add any colour to your face, but will give your makeup more staying power, and prepare your skin for blush and bronzer application. This doesn't have to be expensive - but a really great one is Make Up Forever HD Finishing Powder. This will give you that glow, while minimizing imperfections and making your makeup last all day.

So there you go, all my knowledge and experience with all things foundation. As I said before, good skincare is the key to good makeup, but if you're wearing foundation, good application and the right formula for you is the key to natural, radiant makeup.

Next Monday: a short little post on concealer with tips on how to cover all those spots that in reality, only you can see :)

Enjoy your beauty rest...
Xx LM