Makeup Monday: Liner

Happy Monday - I hope your weekend was fabulous.

I should preface this blog by mentioning that The Bachelor is on in the background and I'm squirming just a little in my sweatpants. 1) Why does the bachelor guy [don't know his name] wear so many turtlenecks and 2) why does that Vienna girl wear such dark eyeshadow all the time?

I'm all for dark eyeshadow in the right situation, but we'll get in to that at another time - today is dedicated to eyeliner. In University, that two day, overlined & smudged eye look was in. These days, the nude eye is the Blair Waldorf of Manhattan.

I want to keep this post short, because eyeliner shouldn't be the focus of your eyemakeup [with the exception of the winged liner look]. I think the days of heavy liquid liner on the top and bottom lashlines is a tad too much, and some of the best smokey eyes can be created without any liner at all. So this post will be dedicated to a few eyeliner tips I've learned along the way.

1) Connect the dots: the easiest way to create a smooth line with any style of liner (kohl, liquid, gel) is to use short strokes [I'm giggling] instead of trying to draw one straight line. Create small, even dots or small lines along your lashline as close to your lashes as possible and then either use a brush, or the liner to connect the dots - doing it this way will keep the liner close to your lashes and eliminate an uneven line.

2) Tighter is better [giggling again]: tightlining is essentially pushing eyeliner into your lashes instead of drawing a line on the lashline. Tightlining gives the illusion of thicker lashes without looking like eyeliner and its my favourite way to use liner. I use a cake liner [powder form] for tightlining which works really with a wet liner brush, but you can use a regular pencil (freshly sharpened) or gel liner as well. What you want to do is [note: being close to a mirror is key here] simply dot your liner in between your lashes on the inner rim of your upper lashes. You can do this two ways - using one hand to gently lift your eyelid to see exactly where to press the liner, or simply lean close to a mirror, look up, and tilt your head slightly up as well to see the inner rim of your upper lashline and place the liner between your lashes. Voila: a thicker lash base without the thick liner. Another tip? Skip liner on your lower lashline [especially for the workday] and take a brown pencil liner and dot it between your bottom lashes. Smudge with your finger and it will create a thicker lashline without heavy liner.

3) Swap liquid for gel: I'm not a fan of liquid liner. Aside from being unforgiving and difficult to apply, liquid liner tends to be harsh. New gel liners are a little softer, easier to apply and still provide great payoff especially when doing a winged liner look. Bare Escentuals new Buxom Lashliner is amazing - it lasts all day, is gentle on your eyes, and is designed to condition and grow your lashes. WIN

4) Simplify the winged liner look: I know you aren't all a fan of devil kitty, but all of us can work the winged liner cat look - and application isn't just for pro's. Two easy ways to create this look:

• Kohl Liner: sharpen your liner and start by making small strokes working from the inside of your eye out, keeping the liner precise and close to your lashes. Once you get halfway up your eye, when you draw the rest of the line, instead of using the tip of the pencil, angle the pencil in your hands so the side of it drags down your lashline, creating a thicker line along the outer part of your eye. You can stop at the end of your lashline or take one more stroke [ew] and wing the liner slightly up and past your eye - quick & easy, just the way I like it.


• Gel Liner: Using a liner brush, make small strokes along the lashline, connecting the dots while focusing on the outer corner of your eye. Don't take the liner past your lashline, instead draw a thin, thin line from the very outer corner of your eye and up, it should almost look like another eyelash. You can leave the liner like this to make your lashes look longer, or you can connect the small line to the liner on the lashline to create a thicker wing that looks amazing with top-lashes only mascara

Like I said, unless you are creating a winged liner look, eyeliner shouldn't be the focus of your makeup, especially if you have smaller eyes. More liner will make your eyes look smaller and increase the chance of that sexy black eye look should the night get a little messy.

Speaking of that black eye look, that black eye girl just snuck into turtleneck boys bed in this castle that they are apparently renting for the evening. He is now telling her to go back upstairs. FAIL for her. She's crying and wearing a glittery purple top in her personal interview thingy, and my bet is she goes home without a rose or a chance to live in turtleneck harmony for the rest of her life. Shame.

Tootles,

xxLM

Makeup Monday: Emphaseyes.

Bonjour tout le monde - how was your weekend?

My weekend involved amazing sushi [avocado, sweet potato tempura, and hot banana maki], interesting people watching, and a Friday night consisting of wine and the sending of inappropriate greeting cards to my very special friends who I miss verymuch.com

Today is makeup monday, and today starts a series of makeup mondays dedicated to eyes. If you know me personally, you know that eyes creep me out. I can't wear contacts let alone watch anyone insert, remove, or fiddle with theirs without my eyes watering. I also squirm when people try to touch my eyes [not like it happens on a regular basis thank God] and harsh lighting makes me look like I ate too many of Moms special brownies.

Because of this - I do my makeup in the dark.

When I do my makeup [or anyone elses makeup for that matter] these problems all reside and I have no problems. Out of my entire makeup routine, I spend the most time on eyes because I believe they are the focal point of any look. Even if you are doing a bold red lip or princess pink cheeks, your eye makeup really affects how your look comes together. Because of this, there will be several makeup monday posts about eye makeup, and todays will be on the basics: brushes, eye prep, and colour selection based on your features. Yay!

The Brushes: eyeshadow brushes are a must. You don't have to have many, but using brushes not only deposits the correct amount of colour in the correct place, but it prevents your fingers from tugging on your eyelid which, in the future, can cause sagging and wrinkles. Not a makeup junkie? Purchase two basic brushes - an all over shadow brush, and a contour brush. The all over shadow brush is for, surprise, depositing a wash of colour all over your lid. The contour brush, which is an angled version of the all over shadow brush, is great for running eyeshadow in the crease of your eye to create dimension or a smokey look. These brushes do not have to be expensive, and Quo [or Sonia Kaschuk for you lucky girls able to visit Target on a regular basis] make fantastic brushes. Love makeup and love eye makeup? Sephora's all over shadow brush and angled contour brush are amazing (and still very cheap - about $13!), and invest in a MAC 217 blending brush. This baby is amazing for not only blending, but contouring and drawing shadows down under your lashline for a great smokey look. I own a good 25 eyeshadow brushes all with different purposes, but the Sephora all over shadow, Sephora contouring, and MAC 217 are the ones I couldn't live without [if we were only talking shadow, with liner, everything changes]. Want an all-in-one? Sephora makes a great double ended everyday eye brush, great price, great colour, great quality. WIN.

Eye Prep: prepping your eye area for eyeshadow application will not only create a smoother canvas for your shadow, it can make you look more awake, create wider eyes, and help your shadow to stay on all day long. No matter what eye look I am doing - I use four products.

Before setting your foundation with translucent powder:

1. Liquid highlighter - I use a small amount of liquid highlighter [some are especially created for under your eyes - Smashbox Photo Op under eye brightener is great, and I love Laura Mercier Secret Brightener] UNDERNEATH my concealer. When I do my face makeup, before concealing under my eyes I put a small amount of this stuff in the inner corner and blend down under my eyes, then use concealer over it. This really brightens up the area under your eyes without looking like you've warn your tanning goggles on the beach for too long
2. Primer - I never used to use an eyeshadow primer and by the end of the day, my shadow was either gone or a jumble of the colours I had used during the day that had creased together. I started using a primer in university and I don't think I will every go without one. Eyeshadow primers are used all over your top lid [if you place shadow on your lower lash line, using a small amount below your lid helps it stay] and into your brow bone. My favourite part of eyeshadow primer is that it corrects the colour of your eyelid. I went through the days of smokey shadows, but at the moment I am loving a nude eye with subtle liner, and lots of lashes. Most days I will only use primer on my lids to correct the colour, and skip eyeshadow all together. I use Urban Decay Primer Potion in Original, and I am yearning to purchase it in Sin which will dry to a pretty champagne finish. There are tons of shadow primers out there, but this is one of the items you don't need to invest in - simply dab your undereye concealer over your eyelid and voila - primed lids without adding another tube to your kit!

After setting your face with translucent powder

1. White cream shadow stick - I use an NYX Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk (white) and I couldn't live without this. I got mine at Ulta for $3, and I believe it's on sale for one dolla on the NYX website (http://www.nyxcosmetics.com/) - fist pump! I use the pencil on the inner corner of my eyes, and put a small amount right on my tear duct, and a tiny amount up into the innermost crease of my eye (see pic). I take a brush (or your finger if you'd like) and blend the colour over my tear ducts and up into the crease and what this does is open up your eyes and brighten them. Putting a lighter colour on the inside bridge of your nose near your tear duct can do wonders for awakening your face and eyes - and if you can't find NYX where you are, and cheap, thick, white pencil will do.
2. Flesh coloured liner - rimming this coloured liner on the inner rims of your lower lashline is a trick that makeup artists use to freshen up your eyes and make you look more awake. I'm not too sure what a hangover feels like, but apparently this is great if you've had a late night and need to erase the vodka eyes the next morning. Finding a colour is slightly difficult - the best option is a flesh toned pink, slightly lighter than the inner rim of your lower lashline, which is where you will use the liner. The best one I've found is Make Up Forever's Concealer Pencil. Previously I had been using a white pencil (this works too, but is a little dramatic in the daytime) and the colour of the MUFE one is spot on. You can also use it to line your lips, highlight around your nose, and blur small spots on your skin. It blends like a cream concealer and stays on all day. You'll also notice in the product description the MUFE artist suggests using the pencil for this reason, I'm not just making it up :) WIN.
   

Seems like a lot of work just to get your eyes ready for eyeshadow - but all together, the white pencil and the flesh liner really open up your eyes, and the primer will allow your shadow to last longer, stay crease free, and colour true. If you notice your eyeshadow seems to change colours during the day [foundation can too], this means that the oil in your skin is causing the makeup to oxidise, a primer will prevent this. Doing all these steps and simply adding mascara and dotting eyeliner in between your lashes (awesome tip - next Monday) is a quick, easy, pretty looking everyday eye look.

Lastly for today, there are a million eyeshadow colours on the market today - if you are a makeup novice, there are premade palettes you can purchase depending on your eye colour. Using eyeshadow colours that complement the colour of your eyes can really create a standout eye using minimal effort. This is not to say that if you should limit yourself to certain colours [well you blue-eyed beauties should nix the blue shadow] - if you like it - work it! Your hair colour can also play a role in choosing an eyeshadow colour. Light hair? Browns work best for you, darker hair can get away with more playful colours without looking too barbie-ish.

Here are shades that can be used to intensify your own eye colour:

Brown: green, bronze, champagne, brown, blue (deep navy liner is amazing on brown eyes)

Blue: taupe, grey, purple, champagne, golden tan, browns

Green/Hazel: deeper bronze, gold, tan, champagne

Looking for a great universal shade that flatters all eyes? MACs All That Glitters is a beautiful champagne colour with subtle shimmer that intensifies all eye colours and is great for an everyday look. I've hit pan on ATG and have repurchased this baby multiple times.

So there you have it: eye basics and eye prep. Next Monday we can fiddle with liner and some basic eyeshadow applications for everyday looks. Lashes will come in a few weeks. My all-time fav with eyes is lashes and I've already started writing the MM post for it I'm so excited. Is that pathetic?

On a separate note... my FAVOURITE make up artist Melissa just uploaded her newest makeup tutorial. Melissa has taught me everything I know about tips and tricks for Hollywood-style makeup, I can't wait to try this one out!

...till next time, xxLM

Makeup Mon[Tues]day: Get Cheeky

I know, today is Tuesday. My apologies.

There are countless reasons as to why Makeup Monday turned into Tuesday [one may involve the fact that this past weekend's alumni reunion was a tad too much fun] - but the most important reason that I am just now posting is that I didn't want to rush this topic and do a sh*t job just to post something. Blush & Bronzer are my absolute favourite part to makeup, so rushing this blog was not an option. Forgiven?

Good. Let's move on.

I think we all have talent wishes, I have a couple. Besides being Taylor Swift or Britney Spears, I wish I could draw. I envy all you artists out there that can sketch, paint, and create images using your own hands. Luckily for me, this skill isn't vital to makeup application, and although I lack the skills to paint myself a lifesize cutout of Shamar Moore [Criminal Minds..SSA Derek Morgan...marry me], I have the skills to paint my face and that'll do for me.

Blush and bronzer are my favourite and as you can see, I have quite the selection [this also may or may not be all of my collection, just my favourites]. Using the right colours and application of blush and bronzer can add life and radiance to your skin and can fake not only a tan, but the shape and structure of your face. Incorrect application can leave you looking like an embarassed oompa-loompa. Your choice.

Everyone can benefit from bronzer.

Bronzer is not exclusive to us pale skinned gals wishing for that creamy Olive skin that stays warm and inviting all year round [b*tches]. Because bronzer isn't only used to warm the skin, you tanned gals can benefit from the sculpting effect of bronzer. For me, I benefit from both the warmth and the sculpting - aka, I dont look dead and my face looks skinnier. WIN.


Using bronzer for warmth is a necessity for me as I finally quit tanning and prefer not to look translucent in the winter. Personally, I prefer to use a bronzer with minimal shimmer that is relatively close to my own skintone. Bronzer should subtly enhance your skin and not make you look dirty, orange, or like a disco ball. Bronzer should make us look naturally sunkissed, and as much as we love Edward Cullen, the sun doesn't impart bright gold flecks onto our skin, and neither should your bronzer. Naturally sunkissed also doesn't change the colour of your entire face - if you feel the need to spread bronzer all over your face - take a trip to the tanning bed and then maybe to the Jersey Shore.


Using bronzer for warmth and bronzer to sculpt your face are two different methods of action.

• Warmth: bronzer should be applied in the shape of a '3' on each side of your face [obviously one side will be a reverse 3]. Starting at your hairline, gently dust bronzer down the side of your temple, coming in slightly at your cheeks, and back out and down your jawline, slightly running the brush just under your neck. This will deposit colour where the sun would naturally hit, and you can add a tiny amount down the bridge of your nose and at the base of your chin for extra colour. Less.Is.More
• Sculpting: sculpting your face with bronzer gives the illusion of cheekbones and a thinner nose, therefore making your face look thinner. The most important place to sculpt is your cheeks, as this will impart a bigger effect on the face than your nose will. To sculpt your cheeks - place your index finger at the middle of your ear - this is the high point of your cheekbone. Press in to your face and run your finger down your cheekbone, feeling the hollow portion - this is where you want to put colour. The easiest way to do this is to use a brush and run your bronzer in a diagonal line from your middle ear and down, stopping just over halfway to your mouth (I use the middle of my eye as a guide). Once you've drawn your line, buff (circle) the brush over the colour following the line to blend the colour, bringing the brush right back up to your ear and slightly up your temples. You can blend the colour up and on to your temples as well, but the biggest payoff will be ensuring the colour is blended nicely into the hollows of your cheekbones, this will create the illusion of a shadow, which makes your face look more sculpted and thinner. WIN. Want to thin your nose? Using an eyeshadow brush, lightly brush bronzer down the sides of your nose, close to the bridge. Run a highlighter [see below] along the bridge of your nose to create dimension.
• You can use bronzer for warmth and sculpting, but you will need two colours and a lot less of a line with the sculpting. Use the lighter colour in the '3' pattern for all over warmth, and then using a smaller brush (I use an angled fluffy eyeshadow brush], lightly dust the darker bronzer just at the hollow part of your cheekbone and up to your ear, blend well - and voila... sunkissed and sculpted :)

Everyone can benefit from blush.

Blush adds life to the face and is necessary to perk up your skin, especially on a Monday after alumni weekend (and Tuesday in my case, it was that fun). There are millions of colours and textures available, and if you are a blush novice, I recommend having a subtle peachy/pink colour that is universally flattering. This colour would be NARS Orgasm [right], the most popular blush in the world, consistently winning beauty awards, and consistently making its appearance on my face [hard to find a PC way to make that statement]. Orgasm is the perfect mix of peach, pink, and minimal sparkle, while not being exclusive to skintones that are warm or cool, pale or tanned - its literally fantastic on everyone [feels good to...going on I mean]. I wish I could suggest a colour dupe for this, but really, there is no comparison to Orgasm.

Blush application depends on the formula

• Creme blush should be applied before setting your foundation with translucent powder. It should also be applied with small brush (MAC 187 is awesome) strokes running from the apples of your cheeks up to your ear, and then blended by circling the brush over the colour. If you use a lot of bronzer, using a creme blush will impart a subtle glow from underneath the translucent powder with the bronzer on top, very understated yet naturally pretty. WIN.
• Powder blush should be applied after your translucent powder and bronzer. If you are using bronzer to sculpt your cheeks - go easy on the blush as you want the focus to remain on the faux shadows you've created. Even better, skip blush and use a highliter [read below] just on your cheekbones, the contrast will be barely visible, but the shape will be amplified. If you use the classic 3 bronzer look, use a blush brush and lightly buff your blush on to the apples of your cheeks starting from the outside of your face and working inwards. If you start at the outside and work in, most of the colour is deposited closer to your ear and then blended seamlessly inwards. Start at the apples, and most of the colour is deposited right on to your cheeks and that "I just came in from the cold" flush turns in to "my part time job is the clown at the fair." FAIL.
  
• Highlighters differ from blush in the fact that the colour payoff is less, the shimmer is slightly more, and they impart more of a glow to the face than adding actual colour. I typically use highlighter when I am going out for the evening as it can be too shimmery for the workday. As stated above, it works fantastically when used with the sculpting technique as it creates a subtle contrast to draw more attention to your new [free] cheekbones. PS - wtf happened to Heidi Montag. Ew.

The great thing about blush and bronzer is they are so widely available at every price point. Unlike foundation, more expensive brands don't necessarily mean better payoff - the staying ability may be a little less, but overall - the effect can be the same. If you love makeup and love blush and bronzer as much as I do, NARS is your soul mate. Their lasting ability is amazing and unlike some other brands, the glitter is limited. I mentioned earlier about their most popular blush [Orgasm], but if you are looking for something different from their line, I really like Sin and Deep Throat [thats what she said]. Laguna, Silvana, and Sertaro are my favourite natural bronzers from them, with Laguna being one of the most popular bronzers in the world for its ability to work with all skintones. MAC also makes great blushes, and if you have a cool, pale skintone similar to me - hit up a pro store, purchase Canteloupe, and enjoy the perfect pretty peach sunset on your cheeks no matter what the weather.

Like I said, I love all things makeup, but I look forward to using my bronzers and blushes every day. Maybe that's a sad statement, but how can you not be excited about whipping out that Orgasm at 9am at least 4 times a week? Note: my mom only owns Orgasm, so her's makes an appearance 7 days a week - go Mom!

xxLM :)

Makeup Monday: Hiding The Evidence...

...for me, it's hiding the evidence that I am either undersleeping or overestimating the capability of my liver. Either way, if I am putting on makeup, I am putting on concealer no matter how peppy I am that day. For a while I didn't know how or where to put concealer [well obviously when I went through adult acne I knew where to put concealer... it was like whack a mole with a concealer brush]. I did some research about two years ago and learned how and where to correctly apply concealer, the different colours to use, and the benefits of taking an extra 30 seconds during your makeup routine to blend blend blend.

Concealers are mostly in liquid or creme form, BareMinerals has a multitasking Bisque powder concealer that is great if you use powder foundation, but generally liquid foundation calls for liquid or creme concealer.

Concealers come in different colours in addition to ranges that match your skintone. Your colour choice of a concealer should be determined by the area you are concealing and what you are trying to cover or enhance. The different coloured concealers are all meant for a specific purpose

• Green tones down redness on your skin and is great if you have rosacea or sections where your skin is irritated. If you have raised red acne marks however, trying to tone down the redness on a tiny spot will actually enhance it
• Yellow is great for undereye circles because it hides blue veins on lighter skintones, yellow can also be used to correct tiny patches of redness on a blemish before using a colour matching your skintone [more below]
• Orange [deeper beige actually] is great for those who have an olive or darker skintone for covering undereye circles, blemishes, or hyperpigmentation. If your skin is on the darker side and you use a more yellow based concealer, it can resemble that fantastic look when you forget to take your sunglasses off while tanning :)
• Purple/Pink concealers are great to brighten the complexion, especially when used in the inner corners of the eyes for all skintones
  

Generally, unless you are a makeup fanatic it is unreasonable to buy all different colours of concealers; if you have a patch of redness bigger than a blemish, I would suggest investing in a green corrector if this is your main complaint. If concealer is your thing, a couple brands now make concealer palettes which include smaller portions of different colours. For all you gals collecting Shoppers Optimum Points [and all you ladies special enough to get a discount, hmpf] -Lise Watier makes a great product called Portfolio [left], and it includes a variety of colours [and instructions] on how and where to apply.

Especially with concealer, application is important. Concealer should be applied after your foundation. First, if you apply concealer before foundation, while you blend you actually strip away the concealer you just applied. The second [and most important] reason is that you should evaluate if and where you need concealer after your foundation is on. If your foundation covers what you'd like to fix, then concealer isn't necessary and you can go on looking in the mirror at your perfect complexion, I'm happy for you. If you are like me, I prefer to use a sheer foundation and therefore need concealer to soften [hide] my vodka bags that appear out of nowhere and for reasons unbeknownst to me.

When using concealer under your eyes - my only tip is to use your ring finger to lightly pat under your eyes to blend it. Patting the concealer will not only blend it seamlessly into your skin, but it will actually help tone down any puffiness that you have. Rubbing there is a no-no [that's what she said] because your skin under your eyes is very delicate, and too much friction can cause irritation [again, that's what she said]. I also apply a tiny amount of concealer to the inner corner of my eye, it makes a huge difference for myself and when I am doing makeup for others. Wear a lot of eyeshadow? Patting a tiny amount of concealer directly on to your lid can also dupe as a primer to make your shadow stay on longer :)

When concealing redness: if you are using a green corrector, this is the exception to pre-foundation concealing. If you are using a green corrector, lightly pat it on to the skin to cover the area, and be gentle when applying your foundation over it. If you still require more coverage after foundaiton, use one matched to your skintone. I have small areas of redness around my nose and on the top of my lips, applying a little concealer to these areas with a brush really brightens up your face. I use a concealer that is a tiny tiny bit lighter than my skintone with a brush, and I blend it in by tapping with my finger. Even if you dont have redness in these areas, play around with applying concealer lightly around your top lip and the edges of your nose where shadows usually sit, it makes a nice subtle difference and really enhances your lips.

[Note: the bachelor is on TV at the moment and I'm getting annoyed - w[ho]tf are these girls?]

Concealing a blemish? This I have experience in, and the best way that I have found is to use two different colours for this. I apply the lighter colour first and blend over and around the blemish, making sure it melts into the skin. After, with a brush, I lightly tap the darker colour on the top of the blemish only. The darker colour will distract attention away from the blemish, and if you try above, all attention will be on your new concealer-inspired pouty lips. Just don't go around making the kissy face. Frown > Kissy Face anyday.

After your concealer is done, set your makeup with translucent powder and you are ready for my favourite - blush & bronzer. Next week I'll teach you how to sculpt your face using bronzer and highlighter, it'll not only create the illusion of high cheekbones, but it will slim your face without having to pass on the chocolate cake or take a trip down treadmill alley.

[The Bachelor is still on, and some chick my age just got a diamond necklace from the man who is also locking lips with 18 other bottled blondes. She is crying tears of joy. I am frowning at the TV, if this gets worse I may have to whip out the half kissy face - shame on her.]

Xx,LM

Makeup Monday: Putting Your Best Face Forward

First day back at work after the holiday season?
Mine too.

Did you go back to the office with a post holiday glow and an even complexion?
I did.

I'd love to say that my skin just glows naturally and I've always had an even complexion, but unfortunately, that is not the case. As a teenager and well into my University years I, like most people, struggled with acne. More than the scarring and obvious imperfections, I hated the way the acne made me feel - self conscious and uncomfortable. I think thats why I not only have a love for skincare, but a love for all things foundation.

So yes, I did go to work today with a nice holiday glow and an even complexion, but it was all faux. I'm not usually a fan of fakes, but I'm all for faking great skin: all you need is the right foundation, concealer, and the right application. Again, it doesn't have to be expensive, but if you are going to splurge for one cosmetic - it should be foundation. Foundation goes directly on to your skin, and the ingredients in it can affect your complexion. Unlike eyeshadows which you can pretty much dupe all colours and textures with drugstore brands, higher end foundation does use finer ingredients that can actually help your skin. A lot are even being made with anti-aging skincare serums mixed right in (I'm all about the 2-in-1, except with the shampoo/conditioner combo: haircare no-no).

A few pre-application tingles...

1. Foundation comes in different formulations to work with your skin
Powder: best for combination or oily skin, when layered on dry skin it can look really cakey, and not the pretty wedding cake version.
Liquid: liquid can be used on all skintones because it comes in so many formulations - moisturizing for dry skin, oil-free or mattifying for combination-oily skins, and for all you b*tches with perfectly normal skin, you can wear anything you want.
Creme or Stick: these are best for normal or dry skins as they usually leave more of a glowy finish that can look rather reflective on an oilier skinned gal
Tinted Moisturizer: again, can work for most skintones except very oily, great for summer as most are now formulated with SPF.

2. Foundations come in different levels of coverage and finishes
Sheer: designed to let your skin show through, gives more of a natural finish and is great for all of you who want to even out your skin tone without that heavy make-up feeling
Moderate: Have a lot of surface redness or hyperpigmentation? Want a little more coverage without looking like wax? Moderate coverage foundation would be a good alternative to trying to cover everything with a heavy hand
Full: the name says it all - full coverage foundation is heaver and more opaque to transform your skin in to a blank canvas. However, unless you have a big scar or a large area of discoloration [or it's your wedding day and you have a very talented make-up artist],I'd shy away from full coverage - not many people can fake geisha-esque skin.

3. Choose the right colour
Tres important - you should have a foundation for summer and for winter, not one for both (unless the sun never touches your skin). Test the foundation on the corner of your face near your jawline, if the colour disappears into your skin - its a match. If you are good with application and your body is darker than your face, you can buy one shade warmer or darker to match, but make sure application is seamless and it stays on all day :)

4. Application is everything
Many things creep me out, and among contact lenses and wet feed in the sand, applying and blending foundation with your fingers is one of them. From my experience and the recommendations of almost any makeup artist you ask - foundation is best applied with a brush. Using the correct brush will allow you to have faster application and spread it more evenly throughout your face - another plus - its definitely more hygenic. Foundation brushes, as opposed to sponges, don't soak up most of the product before depositing it onto your skin, so you'll also use a lot less. Some foundations, like creme or powder will come with a brush or sponge, I've always found a brush works better - and when it comes to foundation and application, I've definitely been around the block (many times).

There are 3 main shapes to a foundation brush and they all affect the way your foundation is applied to the skin. Since I've been around the block with foundations, I've also had time to acquire a couple brushes along the way. You can buy brushes anywhere, and with the exception of a few, most of my eyeshadow brushes are all Target originals; in contrast, my foundation brushes are MAC for a reason: they're the best [well they were, until my Sephora discovery on Saturday that gave me goosebumps. Details later].

Here are my foundation brushes. From left, the MAC 187 and MAC 188 are both circular brushes designed for lightweight application. The 187 is one of the most popular foundation brushes in the world, it picks up just the right amount of liquid or creme foundation and buffs it perfectly into the skin, leaving a really natural look - it also picks up powder foundation perfectly. If you are a foundation novice, this style of brush is easier to master than the MAC 190 (middle). The MAC 190 is firmer and more dense than the 187, designed for smaller strokes for blending foundation outwards from the middle of your face. When used correctly, this can create a seamless and flawless look, but it can also cause streaks or uneven sections depending on the amount you pick up for each portion of your face. Personally, the 187 is a lot easier, a lot faster, and gives a nicer finish [sort of how I imagine David Beckham...]; however, I discovered a new (cheaper) and superior alternative to the MAC 187: introducing the Sephora Professional Platinum Air Brush #55 (2nd from right). For me, this brush tops the 187 hands down - it blends as you apply it, and you can layer your foundations to change your level of coverage - and at any level it looks smooth, polished, and perfect. WIN. The brush on the very right is a Kabuki brush and works really well with Bare Minerals foundation or any loose powder, just be careful not to pick up too much product.

Now that you have the right foundation, coverage level, and application method for you - the rest is simple. Here are the steps that I use, and are generally used when applying foundation.

Moisturize and prep your skin. I use a foundation primer which isn't a necessity, but can really help smooth your skin if you have fine lines or large pores. Oilier skinned gals can benefit from a primer with oil control to help makeup stay on all day.

For liquid, creme, powder, or tinted moisturizer applied with a 187 style brush:

• dab a dime sized amount of product on to the back of your hand, and lightly dip your brush so just the tips are coated with product. For powder, lightly sweep the brush over the top of the powder if its pressed, or dip it slightly into loose powder
• [Powder foundation: skip this step] Starting at the center of your face, dab (like a bingo dabber) the foundation onto both cheeks, your forehead, and chin - this should be all you need to cover your entire face. If you have redness on any areas, you can stipple [continue dabbing over the area before buffing] the brush on those areas for a little more coverage.
• Start moving the brush in circular motions around your face, buffing gently into the skin, making sure to reach your hairline, and going a little lower than your jawline for seamless coverage. If you want more coverage, dip the brush into the foundation on the back of your hand again, and repeat, making sure to blend blend blend. Simple, fast and easy.

..using a 190 style brush (not ideal for powder)

• dab a dime size amount of foundation on the back of your hand and gently coat the tip of the brush with product
• starting at the middle of your face and blending outwards, move the brush in short, small strokes downward making sure to evenly spread the product (you will need to dip again to cover your entire face, the 187 spreads faster with less foundation)
• continue short strokes until you have covered your entire face, paying close attention to your jawline, hairline, and lip area to ensure that all is even.

After making sure everything is even, apply concealer to any discolourations, blemishes, around the edges of your nose, and under your eyes if needed. Using concealer after your foundation ensures the concealer isn't smudged by applying the foundation over it.

After your foundation/concealer is on, if you are using liquid or creme foundation, set it with translucent setting powder using a large powder brush. This won't add any colour to your face, but will give your makeup more staying power, and prepare your skin for blush and bronzer application. This doesn't have to be expensive - but a really great one is Make Up Forever HD Finishing Powder. This will give you that glow, while minimizing imperfections and making your makeup last all day.

So there you go, all my knowledge and experience with all things foundation. As I said before, good skincare is the key to good makeup, but if you're wearing foundation, good application and the right formula for you is the key to natural, radiant makeup.

Next Monday: a short little post on concealer with tips on how to cover all those spots that in reality, only you can see :)

Enjoy your beauty rest...
Xx LM

Makeup Monday: The Background

I believe everyone should have something in their life, aside from a relationship, that makes them crazy happy. Something they look forward to, read about, participate in... anything. Many of my friends are fantastic photographers, one in particular. Being very close friends and teammates for five years I was surprised that I never knew this about her, and today - looking at her facebook pictures of her house, her dog Moose, the seasons, anything...I can't believe this is a hobby she just "picked up" and turned out to be amazingly good at.

I'm not saying I am amazingly good at my obsession - but mine, is makeup. Beauty, skincare, fashion - I adore all, but none as much as makeup. I can't pinpoint when I started to develop a real interest (not just a liking) in makeup. In university, I used to leave my makeup on for days, rubbing my fingers on my night-before-bar-smudged eyeliner in the mornings as a quick touch up before class (or weights...yuk). Sitting here thinking about the disaster I used to put my skin through makes me cringe. Nowadays, I wash my face religiously every morning and night, using different products nightly to rid myself of every having to go through adult acne again. I do this not only to take care of my skin, but because the key to good makeup is good skin. Your skin determines the type of makeup you should be using, and the type of makeup that you shouldn't even own.

Let me preface all of my Makeup Monday posts by saying that I am not a trained makeup artist, nor have I ever taken any real cosmetology classes (yet). What I have learned is from personal experience and mass amounts of time reading, researching, and watching videos on everything from application to colour selection based on race, skintype, and hair/eye colour. I never buy any makeup or skincare cold turkey, I always read reviews and ratings from my all time favourite makeup website Makeup Alley.

[Note: If you're a makeup/skincare/product junkie like I am, sign up for this site, its free, and you can read reviews on millions of products from high end to low end, see recipes for masks using simple out-of-your kitchen ingredients, and swap makeup with other users all over the world!]

So from now on, every Monday will be dedicated to my love of makeup, and I'll share with you the tips and tricks I've learned, some product staples in my kit, and cheaper alternatives to expensive products. As you can see from my kit, my collection is rather large, and rather expensive. Yes, I use expensive makeup, but this is the love of my life. You don't need to use expensive makeup. Expensive makeup does not necessarily look better than lower end cosmetics. In most cases, application is everything. Hence, I will focus more on application tips and tools that you can use with whatever makeup you have in your bag, drawer, or stashed in your purse (eek, no judgements).

So next Monday will be the beginning, and I'll start with the typical way that I apply my makeup - foundation first. I thought I would start today, but this post has already been too long, and my face brushes are definitely not clean enough to post a pic right now ;)